The Wall Street Journal ran an article detailing the rift between Savile Row tailors and the high fashion designers over labels used to describe suits. At the heart of the issue is the differences between the labels used. The three labels for suits are:
- Off-the-rack
- Made-to-measure
- Bespoke, or custom
Off-the-rack, refers to suits made in standard sizes that can be slightly altered. They reflect the lowest price point. On the other hand, both made-to-measure and bespoke fall under the title made-to-order, since they are both made in accordance with particular instructions and requirements. The difference between made-to-measure and bespoke is that made-to-measure uses pre-existing patterns, whereas bespoke is completely original and unique to each customer.
The conflict becomes present because there are no set rules and regulations governing the industry. In women’s wear, the term haute couture, or high-sewing, is a protected name in France representing the best houses who must abide by certain rules and regulations. Thus haute couture, implies that a garment comes from France. This can best be thought of as Champagne only coming from the Champagne region of France; anything else is simply sparkling wine.
In menswear, there is no set rules for bespoke. According to the Journal, in an effort to bring an understanding to the term, the Savile Row tailors, “banded together to create the trade group Savile Row Bespoke in 2004″. Savile Row is the traditional birthplace of high-end tailoring. The website of the trade association states the aim is, “to protect and develop the art of bespoke tailoring as practised in the Row and the surrounding streets”. Only tailors who follow their groups code of practice can use the term Savile Row Bespoke.
These traditional British tailors have reason to worry. As the market for made-to-order sizzles, more designers are creeping into the game. Tom Ford, former head designer for Gucci, opened a boutique for his exclusive menswear designs last week in Manhattan. Mr. Ford says that his suits are not “complete bespoke”, but made-to-measure suits which are priced higher in some cases than bespoke, or true custom.
Bespoke, or true custom is the ultimate in luxury and begs the question of whether consumers wants true custom or a high-end designer name such as Giorgio Armani, Prada or Tom Ford.
A Real Savile Row-The Wall Street Journal[Subsrption req.]
