Catwalk Queen has an interesting post critiquing the menswear show at the Royal College of Art. Definitely worth a read as she details the futurist concept of the show.

Royal College of Art Fashion Show: Menswear [Catwalk Queen]

The trench coat has established itself as a classic since arriving on the scene a century ago. It is a wardrobe staple that will not be going anywhere anytime soon. It should be a part of any man’s wardrobe.

The trench has become a classic through a blend of form and function. The trench is an excellent weatherproof coat, providing warmth and comfort while being inherently stylish. It is essential for protecting one’s business attire. The removable lining allows it to be used through many seasons and conditions. It is a coat that can be worn by anyone.

The trench coat is considered outerwear. It is essentially a raincoat, being made from waterproof fabrics of cotton, drill or poplin. In recent times, designers have updated this classic by using other materials such as leather.

History

As with many modern advancements, the creation stems from military use.

The inventor of the trench is Thomas Burberry, founder of the classic British luxury label. Burberry has been known for creating high quality outwear to protect people from the constant rains that are the norm in England.

Burberry developed and patented a fabric called gabardine. This breathable, weatherproof, tear-proof fabric was the basis for many of Burberry’s clothing, including the trench.

The trench is a descendant of the tielocken coat created in the 1890’s and adapted by British officers. During WW1 the War office commissioned Burberry to transform the earlier coat for new requirements in combat. Burberry added D-rings and epaulets and the trench as we know it was born.

The soldiers quickly dubbed the coats “trench coats” and the name has stuck.

In the 1920’s Burberry added their iconic Burberry check pattern and the classic was further established.

Modern Times

Today the trench is an iconic and stylish garment.

It has landed in pop culture history being used in iconic films from Humphrey Bogart in “Casablanca”, to Peter Sellers in “Pink Panther” and other figures such as Dick Tracy and the Terminator.

Though many designers and companies produce the trench today, many argue that Burberry’s is still the best.

Designers continually update the look by adding new fresh colors and patterns.

Buying

Trench coat’s vary in price from below $100 to over $2000.

Many brands offer trench coats, from Burberry & Brooks Brothers to J. Crew & fast-fashion retailers on the scene.

When purchasing a trench we say go to the best for one’s budget. Our philosophy is to go high on classics. These wardrobe workhorses are timeless and eternally stylish.

Go for a classic cut this hits around the knee.

Also if budget is a concern go for the classic tan or khaki color. This will give you the most versatility and mileage out of the garment.

Going for a trendy color will date the garment once the current color is out. This rule may ignored if one chooses to pick a color that’s a staple for them and their wardrobe.

A quality well made trench will last a very long time if care is taken in it’s maintenance and upkeep.

Zoo York is following the non-stop guest-designer trend in great form. The New York City-based skateboard brand is teaming with artist Mike Giant to the benefit of Stoked Mentoring, a nonprofit youth organization.

The collabo will result in a limited-edition skateboard deck and T-shirt. Giant, known for his tattoo and graffiti designs, will make a, “stylish tribute to Zoo York, Stoked, and NYC’s five boroughs.” Proceeds of both items will go to Stoked Mentoring.

We think this collaboration is great and hold Zoo York and Mark Giant in high regards for it.

ZY x Stoked Mentoring x Mike Giant Collab [Zoo York Events Blog]

Zoo York [website]

Mike Giant [website]

Stoked Mentoring [website]

Back in 2005, when we learned that Dame Dash of Rocawear fame was entering the shoe game via PRO-Keds we were interested. After all, this is the man rumoured to wear a new pair of kicks everyday.

We figured he would have a impact on the brand by bringing his urban appeal to the shoes. We were also a bit leery, wondering if the opportunity would be used to plaster his moniker all over every shoe.

Two years later we are pleased that this is not the case. Instead Mr. Dash has brought the brand back to life and better than ever. The range of styles offered is impressive and left us wanting many, if not all of the collection.

The styles offered stay true to the PRO-Keds heritage. There are classic styles, including such favorites as the Royal Canvas, Court King and the Royal Master basketball shoe.

But there are also designs capturing today’s pop trends. In particular, one shoe has the images of Wonder Bread mixed with the all-over-print trend to produce an eye-popping pleasure.

The brand is hopping on the guest-designer bandwagon, developing lines with today’s most sought-after contemporary artists for limited edition series.

Mr. Dash has also brought new levels of innovation to the industry. The brand has introduced concepts such as scented sneakers (coconut, lifesavers flavor and watermelon). Seriously, who thinks of this?

The website is well-designed. One could easily kill time at work getting lost in the styles presented on the website. Through the ’shoe definition’ section you can learn about their classics styles and the differences.

The retro mixed with new idea is also brought forth on the website which plays classic, old-school hip-hop artists. We didn’t hear one song twice. Better yet, do as we did and let it act as D.J. playing background music free of commercials. Seriously…it’s that good.

The range of styles is all the more appealing when one looks at the prices, which are more than reasonable, in the $50-$75 range. With styles swinging from the simple, minimalist to the in-you-face.  There is truly something for everyone. A surf through the site is encouraged, even by those not considered in the “urban” market.

PRO-Keds [website]

Designer Patrick Robinson has been hired by Gap Inc. as executive vice president of design.

Gap Inc. released an official statement on May 23, 2007.

Starting May 29th, Robinson will oversee all areas of men’s wear, women’s wear and accessories. He will report to Marka Hansen, president of Gap North America, and Gary Muto, president, Gap Adult and gapbody.

“Patrick brings broad experience – from high-end fashion to mass market retail – demonstrating his versatility to interpret and create fresh, clean designs true to the Gap brand aesthetic,” said Ms. Hansen. “We believe his skills and experience with some of the most respected apparel labels in the world will be great assets to Gap brand.”

Mr. Robinson’s career in design is impressive. He joins Gap from Paco Rabanne in Paris, where he has been artistic director since 2005. Most recently, he designed a limited-edition collection for Target’s GO International initiative. Prior to his tenure at Paco Rabanne, Mr. Robinson held senior design and leadership roles at Perry Ellis and Anne Klein. Mr. Robinson served as the design director at Le Collezioni White Label by Giorgio Armani from 1990 to 1994.

This should bring a refreshing vibe to the retailing giant which has been experiencing woes lately. Gap desperately needs to freshen up it’s image to gain it’s appeal back. They face stiff competition from increasing fast-fashion brands like Uniqlo and H&M.

Gap Inc. Names Patrick Robinson Head Of Design Of Gap Adult, Gapbody [press release]

What is a pleat?

A pleat is a classic sewing technique in which the fabric of an article of clothing is doubled over itself and sewn together. In menswear pleats are commonly seen in pants around the waist and shirts on cuffs and the back.

They allow extra fabric to be incorporated into a garment. In pants, pleats give the effect of hiding or concealing items such as pockets filled with various items. They also allow some garments to move better providing ease of movement.

Pants can be seen with one or two pleats. Generally when pants have pleats they will also have cuffs. The weight of the cuff allowing the pants hang better.

With the current style of shorts in men’s wear the question of dress code no doubt arises. The New York Times has an article addressing the current trend of shorts and how they fit into dress code.

For most offices this is a no, no. Some casual or fashion-forward offices may allow it. It is best to take this question to your Human Resource department.

Shorts obviously serve as a certain function in the hot days of summer. However there is no way that shorts make a professional look at this time. As Jim Moore, the creative director of GQ points out, “Just because it’s boiling hot doesn’t mean the whole dress code goes out the window.”

It may take time for the eyes to adjust to the look. But we love this look, despite having difficulty calling shorts in hot days of summer a ‘trend’, but whatever.

We think this look will be seen on many a weekend this summer. It will also be showing up at cocktail parties and outside cafes.

The appeal of the trend has been proven at the retail level where sales of shorts have been brisk.

If you work in a creative office where this look passes muster, make sure you wear it with style. It goes without saying, but the current trend is in reference to sleek, slim and chic shorts. We are NOT talking about jean shorts or oversize, frumpy khaki shorts.

And be sure to pair it with classics like v-neck summer sweaters or cardigans, button-up shirts and a quality pair of shoes. It works best with no socks or low cut ones to avoid the school boy look.

For Hot Cafes and Very Cool Offices [NYT]

HOLY CRAP!!! Forever 21 doesn’t play around. The fast fashion retailer of the ubiquitous yellow bags has moved into men’s wear.

The sheer range of styles and prices are great. Graphic tee’s, button-ups, hoodies, jeans, outerwear. Not for everyone, but this store can satisfy a lot of tastes.

One budget conscious male could build a mini, but powerful wardrobe in this store alone.

They have clothing to take a guy from work to leisure activities.

Granted the prices may also reflect the quality. We are not speaking of high tailoring. But we’re also not speaking inflated prices.

Forever 21 sticks to a formula: Pumping out the latest styles for the least amount of money. And they do it well!

Their men’s wear styles are a reflection of the current trends pumping through fashion.They are currently offering the striped craze that is still going strong. They have all-over print hoodies and even knitted cardigans.

If a guy has a great wardrobe already, this store is a great way to update one’s look each season without spending a fortune.

It fits in great with out philosophy: paying serious dough for classics that are timeless and of good quality and being more reserved on the trendy pieces that are in fashion today, out of fashion tonight.

Forever 21 is perfect for the fast-fashion trendy pieces.  What are your thought’s?

Forever 21-Men [website]

Ralph Lauren is invading Russia by launching twin boutiques in Moscow. The boutiques represent Laurens official entrance to the Russian market.

The American company is entering in a big way with a store in downtown Moscow and an 8,000 sq. ft. flagship in Barvikha, a luxury shopping village.

Lauren has expressed desire for an increased global presence. This move is part of the companies broader expansion into the global market. One of the boutiques is a flagship store for the brand.

We think the American luxury aesthetic represented by Lauren will be welcomed. The Russians now have money to spend and are demanding luxury.

The classic American designs produced by Ralph Lauren will be a breath of fresh air for the country.

Rendezvous in Russia: Ralph Lauren Launches First Stores in Moscow [WWD]

Two years after introducing a few men’s wear garments, designer Narciso Rodriguez has plans to launch a fully dedicated men’s wear line.
The designer is highly regarded for his tailoring and craftsmanship in women’s wear.

After signing a deal with Liz Claiborne recently the designer has plans for aggressive growth of the label.

Rodriguez will launch his first men’s fragrance this July called Narciso Rodriguez For Him.

We think that the men’s wear line will be highly successful and hugely influential. We hear that Rodriguez intends to base the collection in knitwear and high tailoring.

While his current offerings for men’s are shown with the women’s wear collection, eventually Rodriguez intends to separate them.

Based on what we’ve seen so far this will be a label that will be a force in the upcoming years.