NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: BUCKLER COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

by Kid A on January 28, 2008

For Fall/Winter 2008-09 Buckler presented a surrealist collection playing on the label’s Englishman in New York aesthetic.

What designer Andrew Buckler originally started as a denim brand has morphed in a full cult collection mixing British and American sense. The Royal College of Art trained, independent designer sneered at proper etiquette with this Fall/Winter collection which featured the element of surprise and the unexpected juxtaposition of different parallels that haunted the runway.

Darkened hues contrasted with reflective bronzes and coppers, traditional tailoring was placed with the unconventional detailing of bolts and screws and menacing prints were paired with the classic touch of a bowtie.

Buckler challenged the conventional wisdom of the industry blurring the lines with his haunting dreamlike presentation. The dark, gritty vibe was magnified by the smeared black make-up on models, copper chains hanging from fingers and hair deliriously styled to resemble horns.

An analysis of the clothing showed horizontally ribbed sweaters layered with vests, other vests were worn above overcoats and the use of metallic copper fabrics adding to the eccentric mood. The grim, warrior vibe also pushed itself through the use of furs, which were Rescued Vintage Animal Furs (recycled).

A color palette of various blacks came to life through saturated blues, burgundy reds, and bronze.

Andrew Buckler Fall/Winter 2008-09-1/26/08-13Andrew Buckler Fall/Winter 2008-09-1/26/08-14

MORE PICS AFTER THE JUMP!

Andrew Buckler Fall/Winter 2008-09-1/26/08-3Andrew Buckler Fall/Winter 2008-09-1/26/08-4Andrew Buckler Fall/Winter 2008-09-1/26/08-5Andrew Buckler Fall/Winter 2008-09-1/26/08-6Andrew Buckler Fall/Winter 2008-09-1/26/08-7Andrew Buckler Fall/Winter 2008-09-1/26/08-10Andrew Buckler Fall/Winter 2008-09-1/26/08-11Andrew Buckler Fall/Winter 2008-09-1/26/08-12Andrew Buckler Fall/Winter 2008-09-1/26/08-15Andrew Buckler Fall/Winter 2008-09-1/26/08-16Andrew Buckler Fall/Winter 2008-09-1/26/08-2

Andrew Buckler Fall/Winter 2008-09-1/26/08-1

Photo credits: Ricardo Louis and Red Model Management NYC

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{ 1 comment… read it below or add one }

Kathy French February 6, 2008 at 9:12 pm

Andrew Buckners’ display of unconventional attire brought forth a level of incompatible yet undeniable comfort. Ingenious
The work of Ricardo Louis should remain unchallenged as his ability to capture the designer’s intentions.
The gentleman modeling the bronze pants, sweater over white shirt and wearing gloves is my son James Barton Jennings.

Thankyou for the show,
Regards, Kathy E. French

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