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ITALIAN VOGUE’S ALL BLACK ISSUE
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(UPDATE: WIN A FREE COPY OF THIS ITALIAN VOGUE ‘A BLACK ISSUE’ HERE.)
The current cause du jour for the fashion industry has moved past the rail thin negative size models to the lack of black models in the industry.
In a move that is causing the industry to take a deep look at itself the July issue of Italian Vogue features only black models shot by fashion photographer Steven Meisel. Mr. Meisel is also the photographer behind Madonna’s infamous 1992 book, “Sex”.
The July issue of Italian Vogue is the result of the creative forces of Mr. Meisel and editor Franca Sozzani according to Old Gray Lady.
It seems that historical political change currently happening in the states was one of the driving factors in an all black issue. Ms. Sozzani cites Barack Obama as the inspiration for this issue. Mr. Obama has also been touted as inspiration on the Milan runways by the likes of Donatella Versace. And with Michelle being vetted by Andre Leon Talley and the fashion industry in America it seems the Obama’s are fashion darlings of the moment.
Another source for the issue was, “the lack of diversity on the runways in recent years and the debate it fueled last fall in New York”.
“I thought, it’s ridiculous, this discrimination,” Mr. Meisel told the Times in a phone interview. “It’s so crazy to live in such a narrow, narrow place. Age, weight, sexuality, race — every kind of prejudice.”
But where is the discrimination in the industry coming from?
“Perhaps the designers, perhaps the magazine editors,” Mr. Meisel said. “They are the powerful people. And the advertisers. I have asked my advertising clients so many times, ‘Can we use a black girl?’ They say no….It all comes down to money.”
The Times also notes that, “Italian Vogue has gained a reputation for being more about art and ideas than commerce. Ms. Sozzani also doesn’t mind controversy.”
Look for the all black issue of Italian Vogue, which gave Mr. Meisel about 100 pages, to hit European newstands next Thurday and in the U.S. after.
Conspicuous by Their Presence [NYT]
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The Pop Culture Doctor
July 2, 2008 am30 12:08 pm
I AM A DESIGNER IN NEW YORK AND WHEN I WAS WORKING FOR AT A
BLACK-OWNED FASHION HOUSE THE OWNERS AND MYSELF REALLY
TRIED TO USE BLACK MODELS AS MUCH AS WE COULD. THEY ARE FABULOUS. IT WAS REALLY CHALLENGING. OUR COMPANY HAD WHITE PRESS AGENTS. THEY SAW THINGS THROUGH THEIR OWN VISION, WE SAW IT THROUGH OURS. I HAVE ALWAYS TRIED TO COMPROMISE THEY NEVER WOULD . I COMMEND STEVE AND ITALIAN VOGUE . IT BRINGS ME TO TEARS
TO SEE THIS BEAUTIFUL PRESENTATION. AMERICA, PLEASE. PLEASE
WE ARE BEAUTIFUL IN ALL OUR COLORS.
July 6, 2008 am30 1:24 am
As perhaps the last African-American photographer to have worked on a commission for Conde Nast’s American Vogue circa 1978-79, I think the fact that Steve Meisel was employed to shoot black models for Italian Vogue is an insult to black photographers like me who cannot get arrested in Milan, Italy if we wanted to work for Ms Sozzani.
Yes, indeed, for a while Koto Bulofo worked for Conde Nast in Italy, but, indeed, he was a rare exception. I fail to recall when one African-American photographer’s work graced their pages.
Question: what is the problem?
Kindly advise.
Thank you,
Errol Sawyer
July 6, 2008 am30 9:10 am
Finally!
Buy these gorgeous hair looks @ http://www.cclacefront.com. It’s where I bought mine.
Love it!
July 6, 2008 am30 11:32 pm
It’s important to note that Edward Enninful, a black man and one of the most sought after fashion stylists as well as a regular contributing editor to Italian Vogue was also behind this editorial. He routinely works with Steven Meisel and together they do brilliant work. The models are stunning, the sets are gorgeous and the clothing is breathtaking! It’s truly a celebration of the feminine in it’s finest form.
July 7, 2008 am30 4:43 am
Re Post by Melinda Lewis on July 6th, 2008 11:32 pm
Tokenism fails to address the fundamental problem of systemic racism, Melinda.
“The models are stunning, the sets are gorgeous and the clothing is breathtaking! It’s truly a celebration of the feminine in it’s finest form.”
Spare me the fashion speak, please.
Typical air speak without a shred of substance.
WHERE is the black experience, Melinda?
We are different, you know(?).
Get REAL, please.
“People and their cultures perish in isolation, but, are born and reborn when in contact with other men and women, men and women of different cultures.
If we do not recognize our humanity in others then how do we expect to recognize it in ourselves?”—Carlos Fuentes
efsawyer
July 7, 2008 am30 6:14 pm
They are also talking about this on YouTube @ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgsZw9emtNo
July 8, 2008 am30 9:42 am
I am so glad that this issue has brought about so much controversies, in the NYTimes and on so many blogg’s. I love it and hope it will change we women of colour demand to walk down the catwalk, not just as an inspiration for a collection!
Charlotte
Smith Fashion
July 8, 2008 am30 10:46 am
Honest opinion without malice: Steve Meisel is TIRED.
efsawyer
July 9, 2008 am30 11:35 am
I looked for this issue today in NYC and couldn’t find it. Why??????
July 9, 2008 am30 2:01 pm
AWESOME!! Where can I get a copy?
July 12, 2008 am30 10:18 am
It’s an outrage that the fashion industry has been allowed to get away with such a biased portrayal of beauty for so long. I am a Black fashion designer based in London. This argument goes way beyond just models on the catwalk. There are hardly any Black designers involved in London Fashion Week. I am one of few; and even then they keep very quiet about me prefering to support and promote and even financially back my white counterparts.I have worked in the industry for almost 15 hard years for some top names such as Burberry and Nicole Farhi. Yet they prefer to back names such as Henry Holland who has no talent whatsoever; his only claim is that he is best friends with so called super model Agness Dean. This Black Vogue scenario is all fine and dandy, but what will happen next month when all the hype dies down? We need to stop relying on other people to big us up and start bigging ourselves up! I’m not saying white designers are’t as talented as Black designers, I’m not saying that white models aren’t as beautiful as Black models, same for photographers, same for stylists and so on and so forth. I’m just saying that not only do we live in a multi cultural society; we live in a multi cultural world! The days of white supremacy and apartheid are supposedly over, so why is the fashion industry behaving like they are still living in those days of old? Let’s have the balls to speak out against it. Georgina Harley-Smith
July 12, 2008 am30 10:34 am
It is great to see more black full size models in the Italian Magazines. I love Italy, the people the culture and ..IF I lived there I would love to be a full size model. Please check out My picutures on Face book. under Lydia Bobb ( I am English) and if I do say so myself some of the photo’s look really good.
July 20, 2008 am30 7:56 am
The Louisiana Weekly
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Symposium highlights problems in advertising industry
July 24, 2006
NEW YORK (Special to the NNPA from Westside Gazette) — Increasing
diversity in the advertising industry hinges on holding agencies and
their clients accountable, consumers getting more involved, and changing
hiring policies, panelists said during a recent Black Enterprise symposium.
The panel discussion: “Diversity on Madison Avenue: Myth, Reality, or
Illusion?” was held in conjunction with the announcement of Black
Enterprise magazine’s second annual list of the best companies for
diversity, featured in the July issue. BE evaluated diversity programs,
consulted with diversity experts and corporate diversity officers, and
conducted an extensive survey of more than 1,000 of the country’s
largest publicly traded companies as well as more than 50 leading global
companies with significant U.S. operations.
After last year’s list was published, more companies made an effort to
be included this year with an increase in response of nearly 42 percent.
Interest in the list, and efforts made by companies to demonstrate
significant representation of African Americans and other minorities,
encouraged BE editors to boost the number of companies on the list from
30 in 2005 to 40 in 2006.
Moderated by National Public Radio host Ed Gordon, the symposium served
as a forum to highlight the challenges African-Americans have working in
the advertising industry and the small amount of advertising dollars
allocated to minority owned media.
“Even as Black Enterprise celebrates the positive strides that companies
are making in diversity, it shouldn’t be forgotten that the companies
are being recognized for improving practices that were once
non-existent”, said panelist, Rev. Al Sharpton, president of National
Action Network.
“It is like when my mother would pat me on the head for doing something
good after being spanked,” he said.
“African Americans must continue to hold the companies accountable to
ensure they are doing better and make noise when they are not,” Sharpton
said.
Sharpton, along with Ken Smikle, founder and president of Target Market
News; New York City Councilman, Larry Seabrook; Monica Emmerson,
executive director of DaimlerChrysler’s corporate diversity office; and
Allen Pugh, Executive Vice President, Director of Client Services at
advertising agency GlobalHue; all shared their opinions of the current
climate and what improvements need to be made.
“Corporate America has taken too much for granted,” Smikle said. “The
consumer relationship is buffered by what the ad agencies are doing with
their clients.” Consumers are largely oblivious to what is going on in
the advertising industry, continued Smikle.
“Until the information is put out through the Black media as to what is
happening with ad agencies and their lack of investing in the Black
community, the consumer will not know how to make noise.”
Seabrook agreed, adding that there needs to be a connection between the
community and the advertising industry.
“We then must call out the corporations that are not responding. We have
been too nice to those that have been too nasty,” Seabrook said.
Last week, the New York City Commission on Human Rights issued subpoenas
to CEOs of 16 New York advertising agencies as well as people familiar
with diversity and hiring in advertising to appear at a hearing on the
issue, currently scheduled for Sept. 25, said New York City Human Rights
Deputy Commissioner Avery Mehlman.
“Just as companies that don’t hire and promote African Americans or
advertise in Black media must be taken to task. Blacks should patronize
companies that have a positive relationship with the community”,
Emmerson said.
“We must find out what companies are working on our behalf and support
those companies,” she said.
Near the end of the symposium, Smikle charged everyone in the room to
make their voices heard by going home, pulling their favorite product
off the shelf and calling the 800-number on the package.
“I want you to ask them when was the last time they spent money on an
African-American not-for-profit or given in advertising to the African
American media and when can I get a response?”
Emmerson added, “And if you do not get the response you are looking for
make it known in your spending with that company.”
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July 20, 2008 am30 11:12 pm
hi
thank u vogue!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11
it’s abt time black were honoured this way
i love u………………… i’m frm south africa and i only wish i could get my hands on a copy.
July 20, 2008 am30 11:13 pm
hi
thank u vogue!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
it’s abt time black were honoured this way
i love u………………… i’m frm south africa and only wish i could get my hands on a copy.
u are the fashion bible
July 23, 2008 am30 1:27 pm
now this I’ll subscribe to - pls tell me how
July 23, 2008 am30 8:23 pm
I have searched all over NYC and cannot find one copy of this issue, please tell me where I can get it.
July 24, 2008 am30 7:41 am
Well! I am a representative of Salt Works Jeans. We launched a Missy Line that benefits all shapes and sizes, because we were orginally contemporary. We are selling more jeans now because we have taken into account, not everyone is very small. Neiman Marcus picked us up, and we were also featured at this years ESPY awards.
I want to thank Vogue, tremendously, for educating everyone that Black is Beautiful.
July 30, 2008 am30 7:01 pm
I hope that the Italian Vogue’s “Black Issue” will service as a lesson for the fashion world from the advertisers to the runway shows of all the major haute couture houses that beautiful black models DO SELL. This issue that has been titled the “Black Issue” is not only in major demand it is the best selling issue every in the history of Conde Nast and is scheduled to be reprinted. I would like to commend Italian Vogue for their overall concept and photographer Steven Meisel for his vision and great representation of all the beautiful black models he show cased for this special issue.
Remember it was Mrs. Eunice Johnson at Ebony magazine and Ebony Fashion Fair that provided not only the black community but the entire fashion world with beautiful black models dressed in haute couture fashions from around the world. For over 50 years Mrs. Johnson, Ebony magazine and Ebony Fashion show proved to the world that beautiful black models DO SELL. A special thanks to Mrs. Eunice Johnson, Ebony magazine and Ebony Fashion Fair for all their years of show casing beautiful black models in print and on the famous and fabulous Ebony Fashion Fair runway.
July 30, 2008 am30 10:24 pm
Mr Meekins resides in a parallel universe.
efsawyer
August 6, 2008 am30 12:58 pm
The problem I’ve ALREADY run into regarding this issue of Vogue is availability. I’ve read several articles about it. “The Today Show” had a segment about it. Yet I’ve walked all over NYC looking for it, to MAJOR magazine stores, and I couldn’t find one until today, just a couple of blocks from where I work at a little magazine/candy store. It was prominently displayed in the window, and me and a random sister on the street spotted it at the same time and walked in and bought one. I talked to the proprietor, telling him the difficulty I had finding them. He said they are special order issues, so they have to be requested. It seems none of the magazine stores are requesting them. I’ve seen Italian Vogue issues at many stores, yet not THIS issue. Why is that? It seems even with all the press surrounding this issue, they are avoiding ordering it because it features ONLY black models, and they fear they won’t sell. They could order a small stock, see if they sell, then order more. They could display it in their windows, so folks can see that they have it. They’d rather not bother at all. It’s disappointing, but not surprising…
August 6, 2008 am30 1:03 pm
I think we also need to note that black women I believe have made the cover of European issues of before, yet it’s the AMERICAN edition that has issues. Only 3 black women have made the cover (Oprah Winfrey, Halle Berry and Jennifer Hudson. We can throw LeBron James in as the only black male to appear). Europe has always been ahead of the curve, but the American market for fashion mags is pretty much lily white. Magazine executives state that their research shows that issues with blacks on the cover simply don’t move off the newsstands, thus justifying them not featuring black models.
August 6, 2008 am30 4:49 pm
Mr. Errol Francis Sawyer
I ask you sir what have you done to activate change in this industry you proudly proclaimed to be apart of circa 78-79?
After all, I would hate for such insightful wisdom to be reduced to just another Bitter Black Blogger!!!!!!
The name of your social organization to educate and empower young black aspiring photographers IS???????????
August 6, 2008 am30 11:45 pm
Response to KIM,
1. SURVIVE BEARING A STRONG SENSE OF MY CULTURAL HERITAGE WHILE ALLOWING SAME TO INFORM MY WORK IN EVERY IDENTIFIABLE SENSE.
2. ADVOCATING REAL CHANGE BY INSISTING ON HOLDING BLACK, WHITE AND ALL ETHNIC COMMUNITIES ACCOUNTABLE FOR THE EFFECTS THEIR ACTIONS, LARGE AND SMALL, EITHER CONTRIBUTE AND/OR UNDERMINE THE STATUS QUO VIA BLOGS, DISCUSSIONS, LETTERS AND MEMBERSHIP IN THE SOCIALIST PARTY HERE IN THE NETHERLANDS, ETC
3. REQUESTING THAT KIM DO A LITTLE HOME WORK BY ASKING SAME QUESTIONS OF OPRAH WINFREY, BILL COSBY, BARACK OBAMA, TIGER WOODS, MICHAEL JORDAN, BEYONCE,
AL SHARPTON, JESSE JACKSON ET AL. BEFORE LEVELING HER RAGE IN MY DIRECTION.
4. FURTHER REQUESTING SHE/HE BOYCOTT PRODUCTS MANUFACTURED BY TRANSNATIONALS SUCH AS L’OREAL, PROTOR AND GAMBLE UNTIL THEY PROVIDE VERIFIABLE PROOF OF DIVERSIFICATION IN ALL DEPARTMENTS OF THEIR RESPECTIVE ORGANIZATIONS.
5.VISIT THE FOLLOWING LINKS IF YOU WILL, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christie_Brinkley
Career
Errol Sawyer, an African-American photographer from New York City, son of playwright Robert Earl Sawyer, discovered Christie Brinkley at a local post office on the rue de la Gaité in the 14th arrondissement in Paris during the spring of 1973.[2] Following a brief interview and a short series of headshots, he introduced Brinkley to model agent John Casablancas of Elite Model Management with whom he collaborated on portfolio development of prospective models.[3] Initially, Casablancas hesitated because at the time, Brinkley’s look was “too American.” However, based on his confidence in Errol Sawyer’s taste, he agreed to send Brinkley on several “Go-Sees” the next day and, as they say, “The rest is history.”
Contrary to Mr. Casablancas’s description: “Errol Sawyer was a scout on our payroll.” Except for a small advance against future “Test Shoots”, Elite Model Management compensated Errol Sawyer for normal costs of film and development, but nothing more. John Casablancas never informed Errol Sawyer that indeed, technically, Mr. Sawyer was eligible for a “Finder’s Fee” of approximately six percent of Ms. Brinkley’s future earnings while under contract with Elite Model Management.[4]
http://errolsawyer.com/
http://errolsawyerstudio.com/
PEACE
August 7, 2008 am30 3:45 pm
For all of you that live in NYC, you can find the issue at a magazine store between 48th and 49th Street and Second Avenue (on the east side), right next to Morton’s market. The place doesn’t have a name, but it has the magazine right in the window, and had copies of all the covers. Also Universal News, 14th Street between 5th and 6th Avenues. Happy hunting!
August 8, 2008 am30 1:42 am
RE KIM Addendum
The ancient philosopher Plato (circa 427 - 347 BC), wrote many astounding works. One of his largest, The Republic, contains the oft-referred to Allegory of the Cave. If you are unfamiliar with the work, here is a good artist’s rendition of the Cave: ((http://www.meditationsight.com/Document…) .
Explanation of The Cave
Prisoners are chained deep down in a cave, from very early childhood. Their arms, legs, and head are all chained so that they cannot move, only stare at the wall before them.
Behind them is a huge fire. Between them and the fire is a raised path, on which shapes of animals, plants, and other items are carried. This casts shadows on the wall, which transfixes the prisoners; and when one of the carriers speaks, the sound echoes throughout the cave so the prisoners believe that it is coming from the shadows themselves. The captives play a sort of “name game” with one another, giving names to the shadows, which are the only reality they know.
Now picture one of the prisoners is freed from his bonds, and is beckoned to stand and turn around. He would sense pain in his body, and would be blinded by the glare of light. The shapes passing before him would seem less real than the shadows that they cast.
Upon leaving the cave, he is once again blinded by the increase in light. At first he only sees dark silhouettes of things, then he begins to see objects more and more clearly as his eyes adjust.
The last thing he would see is the sun itself, which he learns creates all of the seasons, and shapes and touches all that surrounds him.
Returning to the cave so that he may free his fellow prisoners, his eyes do not adjust well to the darkness. He cannot play their name game as quick, and they believe him to be blinded from his venture away. They think that this will happen to them, and so do not want to be freed, and out of this fear become murderous to anyone intending to do so.
August 26, 2008 am30 8:55 am
Hi,
To whom it may concern. My mother would like to purchase a copy of your all black issue. Can you assist her with that?
Thanx
September 12, 2008 am30 8:20 pm
To whom it may concern:
I have searched for the re-issue of 2008 July Issue of Vogue and I simply cannot locate it. I live in Los Angeles, CA, will you please tell me how I can obtain a copy of this issue?
Kindly,
Demetria Richardson
September 17, 2008 am30 6:40 pm
Hi,
To Whom It May Concern:
I have a tall beautiful daughter whom is interested in modeling. I think this would inspired her. Please tell me how to get a issue
September 18, 2008 am30 10:37 am
Tamiko,
At this point, I think ebay is your best bet to score a copy. Of course, it will cost a bit more to get one that way (the bidding on one copy is already at over $200, and another is at $95.00). Unfortunately, many newstands and magazine stores never ordered this edition, so it wasn’t widely available from jump. Maybe check Vogue’s website and see if there’s a way to get backissues, etc. Good luck. I agree that it can be inspiring for young black girls to see this issue…
Tim
September 20, 2008 am30 2:25 am
Tim,
In the Bay Area I found the opposite to be true regarding newsstands and magazine stores carrying this particular issue. I called about 15 stores in the suburbs and outer areas of the San Francisco Bay Area and all were sold out within 2 days of hitting the U.S. It wasn’t that they didn’t have it because they failed to order it, they didn’t have it because it was a immensely successful and flew off the newsstands. About half of those stores that had sold out were taking names on a waiting list. My experience has been that most stores don’t bother to re-order when sold out, but this was an exception. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve tried to get additional copies of an IV issue and it’s been impossible to do so. As a vendor for this shoot, I had to wait for nearly 6 weeks for a copy because of all of the back orders. That’s unusual for us.
September 23, 2008 am30 10:53 am
I am so proud of my country (Italy) for doing this amazing job and show to the world that we embrace the beauty with all its wonderful colors.
December 8, 2008 am30 8:54 am
I would like a copy of the Black Italian Vogue even at this late date. Please tell me how I can get a copy of it. Thanks.
December 23, 2008 am30 12:33 am
Long over due. But Black People the world over must establish and maintain our own industry. If not; we should’nt complain. One of many examples is the Chinese Fashion Industry. Not quite what we my feel we are used to, but I admire how they use there own.Never-the-less; THANK YOU ITALIAN VOGUE!
December 24, 2008 am30 10:08 am
Sessilee Lopez is my cousin (3rd) and I would love to obtain a copy of this issue of this magazine!