Martin Margiela, still the talk of Paris due to rumors of his upcoming retirement, put on a chillingly creepy show in a Paris morgue for this Spring Summer 2009 Maison Martin Margiela collection.
Adding to the striking vibe were models clad in flesh toned stockings blurring out their faces. The show marked the Belgian designers 20th anniversary stirring up and influencing the fashion world.
Most of the critic agree that the show revisited classic Margiela looks.
The Telegraph said:
“The show revisited some of the iconic pieces which have stamped the reign of MMM: white tuxedo jackets with exaggerated shoulders, slogan T-shirts, over-sized jersey pieces, hair wigs and giant Afros posing as hats, epaulettes, cut-out leotards and jackets which were conventional in front and nude from behind.”
In On the Runway Eric Wilson said:
“But this collection was not one in the sense that the Maison Martin Margiela was saying anything new, but rather repeating the themes of oversized volume, trompe-l’oeil and deconstruction that have characterized its work, starting with a trio of looks based on Mr. Margiela’s first jacket from the spring 1989 collection. There was a dress on which was printed a negative photograph of the jacket, followed by a black cotton jacket painted over in white, followed by a plaster molding of the jacket. Also revisited were the cut-up oversized T-shirts of 1997, the bustier catsuits of 1992 and the giant knit tops from 1994 that were based on what Barbie clothes would look like if blown up to life size.”
Over at Heard on the Runway Christina Passariello looked also into the pure theatrical spectacle of it all:
“The house did review some of its well-known codes in a celebration of its past. Jackets came with protruding shoulders, one of Margiela’s most influential looks from previous seasons. A white lab coat was cut close to the body to make a sexy dress….But forget actually wearing any of the show’s clothes – that’s what the pre-collection is for. The runway show was pure theater, and its intellectual aspect keeps it a favorite among serious fashionistas.”
All are basically decided that this great influencer of fashion put on a great 20th anniversary show despite the pomp and circumstance that normally accompanies anniversary collections.
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